When we last left off (link to part 1 of this story), we were parked outside a locked gate in the pitch dark on Christmas night, trying to make sense of how Chino Hills State Park had closed hours earlier than we expected. The GPS was of no help. Louie was already curled up, as if we were staying put, and it was already past 10 PMâeverything around us was closed, and options were scarce. The challenge with our rig, especially with Louie onboard, is that stealth camping isn't really an option. To sleep comfortably, we need to pop open the top since AlizĂŠe and I sleep above, with Louie claiming most of the space below. While AlizĂŠe is usually chill about popping the top just about anywhere, I'm a bit more cautiousâalways worried about that dreaded middle-of-the-night knock on the window asking us to move. So, as the clock ticked onward, the hunt for a suitable and safe overnight spot beganâand let me tell you, it was no easy feat. Mich wa2ta halla2? (Is this really the time for this?), we kept asking ourselves as we zigzagged from one locked gate to another in disbelief.
The unexpected Christmas detour
We drove around desperately for about an hour, visiting three privately run campgrounds that were either closed or full for the night. Exhaustion was setting in, tensions were high, and my brain was already catastrophizing. I could picture it: Louie pacing, me heating up a can of chickpeas over a lighter, and AlizĂŠe trying to convince me that this was all part of the adventure. At some point I think I mumbled, âThis is how Lebanese legends are born⌠lost in a forest, fueled by stubbornness and hummusâ.
Finally, we decided to head deeper into the darkness toward San Bernardino National Forestâimagine us navigating winding mountain roads in pitch black, surrounded by nothing but the occasional, sketchy camper rig that looked straight out of a Breaking Bad episodeâshi bi khawif! (which roughly means âstraight up terrifying!â in Lebanese). Our destination was Bonita Ranch Campground, which their website promised was open and had available sites. After a tense drive and a significant climb in elevation (meaning it was now freezing cold), we arrived. Would we recommend Bonita Ranch? Honestly, noâbut it got the job done. We quickly set up, shut everything down, and woke up early to jet toward warmer, less bleak scenery. Not exactly the cozy Christmas nightcap weâd envisionedâbut hey, memorable nonetheless.
Palm Springs oasis đ´
Thursday morning, December 26, we arrived in Palm Springs and checked into Happy Traveller RV Parkâa centrally located oasis with manicured palms, a pool, and plenty of retirees living their best lives. It felt humorously bougie compared to our modest setupâjust us, a pop-top van, and a folding camp table trying to blend in among massive RVs with satellite dishes and string lightsâya latif! (Thatâs our Lebanese way of expressing disbelief, shock, or embarrassmentâall of which felt fitting in that moment.) We looked like we showed up to a Lebanese wedding in flip-flopsâbut we loved every second of it.
Later, we explored Palm Springs and enjoyed drinks and appetizers at Boozehounds.
Boozehoundsâa dog-friendly restaurant with the playful motto "where dogs bring their humans." From a full gourmet menu dedicated to pups to the bold, heartwarming wall message: "Be the person your dog thinks you are," this place was a total gem. Whether youâve got a furry friend or not, itâs well worth a stop.
Afterward, we lucked outâit just so happened to be Thursday, meaning we were perfectly timed to wander through Palm Springs' vibrant weekly street fair. The lively atmosphere, local vendors, and festive energy made for the perfect end to an already amazing day.
Joshua Tree & the Ramen surprise
On Friday, while AlizĂŠe wrapped up an illustration for a stand-up comedian (a proud milestone just one year into her freelance journey!), I soaked up the sun and wandered the streets of Palm Springs with Louie. Later, we set off to explore Joshua Tree National Park, marveling at iconic sites like Hidden Valley and Keys View.
Visiting national parks with a dog isnât idealâmost trails donât allow dogs, so we ended up cruising between sites by car and walking Louie through parking lots. Hahaha. Still, we soaked in stunning desert vistas and appreciated the parkâs namesake treesâthose wild, spiky silhouettes that look like they were doodled by a sleep-deprived cartoonist. Poor Louie looked at me like I told him he canât eat kibbeh ever again. Ya haram! (For the uninitiated, kibbeh is a beloved Lebanese dish made of bulgur, minced onions, and finely ground meatâbasically, Louieâs dream dinner (minus the onions) if he had a say!)
Once done with Joshua Tree, we made our way to our second-ever Harvest Host stay (Mineral Spring Date Farm), and it was another slam dunk: a date farm oasis scattered with natural hot springs.
The highlight? Ramen. When we arrived, the host casually mentioned they offered a bowl of homemade ramen for $10âjust text in your order and pick it up from their house. Naturally, we werenât sure what to expect, so we read the reviews. They raved. Curious and a bit skeptical, we gave it a shot.
Forty-five minutes laterâding dingâa text: "Your ramen is ready." I headed over, and wow. Handmade everything, served in a stylish stone bowl with all the toppings and legit chopsticks. It was hands-down the best ramen weâve ever had.
The next morning, I walked back to the house to thank the hosts, and thatâs when I learned the secret. The hostâs wife is a world-renowned Korean chef who once appeared on high-profile U.S. cooking shows, taught some of the worldâs top chefs to master Korean cuisine, andâthough I canât recall all the accoladesâI just remember leaving that conversation feeling like weâd been lucky enough to taste one of the worldâs most precious bowls of ramen. What a wild, delicious surprise!
Art, Apple, and Ash
Saturday was culture dayâwe checked out the David Hockney exhibit (heâs recently known for creating iPad art). Fun fact: Tim Cook was apparently there just a room ahead of usâdidnât see him, but thatâs what we heard!
Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely lunch at Edwinâs parentsâ place in HemetâEdwin is my good friend and next-door neighbor in Seattle; we literally say hi from our kitchen windows! Their warm hospitality felt like a hug after days on the road.
Saturday evening we slept at Perris Lake State Campgroundâempty and peaceful, though the shower was very cold.
Sunday morning, after a scenic lakeside walk, we drove to San Clemente State Beach, enveloped in heavy fog but still charming. With hot showers and beach access, it was the perfect place to recharge. Andâthis is hilariousâI randomly decided AlizĂŠe needed a new Apple Watch. One moment we were calmly lounging in the van, and the next, I was like, "Letâs go get you a new watch!" We had just 30 minutes before the Apple Store closed, but we made itâand yep, mission accomplished. As we settled back into the van that night, I remember catching the faint smell of smoke in the air. There was ash too, subtle but noticeable. I assumed it was restaurant vent smoke trapped in the thick fog or a neighboring bon fire. After all, it was winterâwell outside wildfire season. Right? Little did we knowâŚ
Citrus, clean clothes & quiet goodbyes
Monday, December 30, we spent the morning at nearby outlets, snagging new shoes and indulging in our only In-N-Out burger of the trip. To walk off the fast food guilt (and justify dessert later), we headed for a sunny stroll at San Onofre State Beach. This spot was buzzing with mellow surfer vibes and dotted with epic rigs and camper vans parked along the waterâtruly a vanliferâs candy store. It was the perfect stretch and scenery fix before our evening plans.
Later that evening, we had dinner with our friends Michel and Jessica and their two kids at their new home in Rancho Mission Viejo. It was such a treat to see them againâespecially since we usually only get to meet once or twice a year. They were so kind and welcoming, and they even let us do a much-needed load of laundry (I was down to my last clean pair of trunksâclose call!). My mom wouldâve said, âShu hal meshwar? You went all the way to California to do laundry at your friendâs house?â But then again, sheâd be the first to pack six extra shirts âjust in caseâ.
That night, we settled at Doheny State Beach, right by the oceanâa decent spot, though we skipped testing the showers. That's because the next morning, Michel and Jess invited us back for breakfast and a warm shower. When you're just a 15-minute drive away from friends you rarely get to see, you've got to make the most of it! Before we left, they gifted us some citrus from their garden: lemons and calamansi citrus (tiny sour oranges) you're meant to eat wholeâskin and all. I couldnât get enough of them. I devoured them like a Lebanese uncle at the end of a wedding buffetâyou know the one who grabs a whole tray of baklawa 'for the road'? Michel still sends me photos of his orange tree from time to time, probably as a way to lure me into moving to beautiful, sunny California. And like a true Lebanese, I say, âEh, maybe one day, inshallahââwhich is basically code for: not anytime soon, but Iâll let you keep dreaming!
New Yearâs Eve: low key & loungy
Tuesday, New Year's Eve, after unsuccessfully attempting to secure a spot at the fully booked Malibu Creek campground, we landed at Foster Residence Park in Ventura Countyâbasic but adequate for our final night of 2024. No fireworks, no big countdownsâjust the three of us tucked in, with Louie snoring and AlizĂŠe sipping tea like this was the most normal New Yearâs ever. Around midnight, a few fireworks popped off in a nearby town and startled Louieâheâs not exactly a fan of sky booms. In fact, heâs terrified of them. Itâs the reason weâd deliberately hunted for a more remote spot, away from any big city centers where midnight fireworks were basically guaranteed. Even so, he handled it like a champ. I offered him a kibbeh-shaped treat out of guilt, and we all pretended this was totally fine and festive. We were grateful for the relative calmâand letâs be honest, a bit proud that we pulled off New Yearâs in a van without ending up on the local news.
Coastal calm & New Yearâs reflections
After a week of surprise ramen, citrus diplomacy, and dodging firework meltdowns, you'd think we'd be ready to crashâbut nope, the van still had a few magic sunsets and sandy detours to offer before calling it quits.
New Year's Day, Wednesday, was beautifully sunny. We explored Ojaiâs quiet charm, drove by beautiful Lake Casitas, and enjoyed a relaxing pit stop at Pismo Beach for a quick picnic with a view. Later, we took Louie to a dog-friendly beach in Cayucos, capturing delightful memories as we watched brave souls taking chilly New Year's ocean dips. We closed the day with a stunning sunset at San Simeon Creek Campground (note-to-self: book site 31 or 32 next time for epic sunset views).
Thursday, January 2, dawned beautifully clear. We embarked on a gorgeous hike with Louie on Ridge, Bluff, Arch, and Dolphin trails, a truly picturesque experience despite having to remove a few ticks from Louie's fur afterward. That afternoon, we arrived just in time at Sunset State Beach to catch one last mesmerizing sunset from the dunesâan unforgettable sight.
The rainy rush home
Once we wrapped up our time along the California coast, the vacation was officially overâand it was time to drive back home. We had hoped for a scenic and enjoyable return journey, but the moment we left California, the skies shut down any trace of sunshine. Rain began to pour as we crossed into Oregon, and it didnât stopânot onceâall the way back to Seattle. It was as if the universe wanted to remind us: 'You wanted adventure? Take this soggy reality check ya zalameh!' No kidding: nonstop grey skies and soggy roads through both Oregon and Washington. It was⌠depressing, to say the least.
We pushed through quickly, making a brief overnight stop at Valley of the Rogue State Park in Oregon, where we were at least able to enjoy a hot shower. The next day, we made one final pit stop at Bridgeport mall for a quick break and to give Louie a stroll. By that point, all three of us smelled like soggy saj bread left out in the rain. We tossed on dry hoodies, blasted the heater, and cruised the last leg back to the comfort of our own home.
A surreal homecoming
Just days after returning, we saw the headlines: devastating wildfires in Southern Californiaâincluding Malibu and Pasadena. Places weâd just visited. The realization that they were now forever changed was surreal.
It reminded us just how fleeting, fragile, and precious these moments are. You blink, and what was a campsite full of laughter, fox calls, and Taylor Farms salad wrappers becomes a memory. Weâll carry it with usâlike a jar of mouneh (a stash of preserved foods like olives, jams, or picklesâbasically, Lebanese treasure for when you need a taste of home) tucked deep in the vanâs pantryâuntil the next Yalla, Bye adventure.
đşď¸ Itinerary & cheat sheet (part 2)
Day 5 (Dec 25): Locked out of Chino Hills SP â Desperate campground hunt â Bonita Ranch Campground (San Bernardino National Forest)
Day 6 (Dec 26): Arrive in Palm Springs â Check into Happy Traveller RV â Drinks at Boozehounds â Palm Springs Street Fair
Day 7 (Dec 27): Palm Springs morning â Joshua Tree National Park visit â Date Farm Harvest Host stay â Best ramen ever!
Day 8 (Dec 28): David Hockney exhibit â Lunch with Edwinâs parents in Hemet â Camp at Perris Lake State Park
Day 9 (Dec 29): Scenic walk â San Clemente SP â Impromptu Apple Watch run â Smell wildfire smoke
Day 10 (Dec 30): Outlet shopping â San Onofre State Beach stroll â Dinner + laundry at Michel & Jessicaâs â Camp at Doheny State Beach
Day 11 (Dec 31): Breakfast & shower at Michel & Jessicaâs â Citrus gift haul â Camp at Foster Residence Park (Ventura County)
Day 12 (Jan 1): Sunny start â Explore Ojai, Lake Casitas, picnic in Pismo Beach, dog beach in Cayucos â Camp at San Simeon Creek SP
Day 13 (Jan 2): Hike Ridge, Bluff, Arch & Dolphin Trails â Camp at Sunset State Beach
Day 14â15 (Jan 3â4): Rainy drive back â Overnight at Valley of the Rogue SP (Oregon) â Final stretch to Seattle with pit stop at Bridgeport Mall
